The Twin Peak Expedition is a 12-day Leh-to-Leh climb of two Ladakh 6,000ers: Kang Yatse II (6,250m) and Dzo Jongo East (6,217m), sharing one Markha Valley approach. The Vertical Tribe runs it as two acclimatisation nights in Leh, a Markha Valley walk-in via Markha and Hankar to Kang Yatse base camp, a rest-and-training day, the KY2 attempt, a move to Dzo Jongo base camp at Nimaling, the Dzo Jongo East attempt, a Kongmaru La crossing on the way out, and two weather-buffer days. Both peaks grade Alpine PD/PD+. We strongly recommend arriving with one Himalayan trek behind you on which you slept at 4,500m or higher.
Highlights
- Two summits for one expedition. A second 6,000er for extra time and money: you're already acclimatised after KY2, and the move to Dzo Jongo base camp is short.
- One shared Markha Valley approach. No retreating to the road for the second peak. The trek itself runs through Markha and Hankar villages: the classic Markha Valley walk-in, done here as the acclimatisation approach rather than a separate trip.
- ₹75,000 for two 6,000m climbs. The KY2 standalone is ₹54,000, so the Dzo Jongo summit comes at roughly ₹21,000 of marginal cost.
The Twin Peak Expedition at a glance
- What is the Twin Peak Expedition?
- A 12-day climb of two Ladakh 6,000ers, Kang Yatse II (6,250m) and Dzo Jongo East (6,217m), sharing one Markha Valley approach.
- How hard is it?
- Alpine PD+ for the harder summit (KY2: snow walk-up with one fixed-rope ridge). Dzo Jongo East is a non-technical PD-grade snow walk-up. No prior mountaineering experience needed. We strongly recommend arriving with one Himalayan trek behind you on which you slept at 4,500m or higher.
- How long does it take?
- 12 days Leh to Leh, including 2 buffer days held back for weather or summit re-attempts.
- How much does it cost?
- ₹75,000 per climber. That covers transport, all stays, meals from Day 3 lunch, all permits, technical gear, and certified NIM/HMI-alumni guides. Insurance and Leh meals are extra.
- When is the best time to climb?
- Mid-July to mid-September. Late July through August gives the most reliable weather on both summits.
How difficult is The Twin Peak, really?
One summit is, mildly; the other is not. Kang Yatse II is Alpine PD+: a snow walk-up with one fixed-rope summit ridge, so you need crampons, an ice axe, and the ability to move roped on a glacier. Dzo Jongo East is Alpine PD and non-technical: crampons and ice axe, no fixed ropes. No prior mountaineering experience is required; we teach the skills at base camp on the rest-and-training day. We strongly recommend arriving with one Himalayan trek behind you on which you slept at 4,500m or higher.
- Terrain
- Valley trail for three days through Markha and Hankar. Above Kang Yatse base camp it changes: moraine to the glacier toe, a sustained snow slope, then a fixed-rope finish on the south-west ridge. Above Dzo Jongo base camp it is moraine onto a broad snow slope leading to a wide summit ridge. Skills used across the two peaks: crampon technique, glacier travel.
- Altitude
- Two summits at 6,250m and 6,217m, sleeping at 4,900m below Kang Yatse and 4,800m below Dzo Jongo. Two nights in Leh at 3,500m, a staged approach at 3,800m and 3,950m, then a full rest day at Kang Yatse base camp before the first summit. Descent crosses Kongmaru La at roughly 5,260m.
- Summit day
- Kang Yatse II: pre-dawn start from base camp, cross moraine, rope up at the glacier toe, snow ascent to the summit pyramid, fixed rope on the final ridge, back at base camp by mid-afternoon. Dzo Jongo East: pre-dawn start, moraine onto the broad snow slope above, no fixed ropes, wide summit ridge, back at base camp by midday.
Overview
The Twin Peak expedition is a Markha Valley climb with two summits stacked back-to-back. After two nights in Leh to acclimatise, you drive to the road head and walk into the valley. Trail days carry you through Markha and Hankar villages to Kang Yatse base camp under the south face. A full rest-and-training day at base camp covers crampon fit, ice axe self-arrest, and fixed-rope ascent before the first summit. The KY2 attempt goes via the south-west ridge — a long snow slope topped by a short, fixed-rope summit pyramid. Back at base camp, you move across to Dzo Jongo base camp in the Nimaling area for the second summit attempt — a non-technical snow walk to a wide summit ridge. The descent crosses Kongmaru La at roughly 5,260m — the highest pass on the Markha trek — and drops to Chokdo for the drive back to Leh. Two buffer days are built in at the end for weather, summit re-attempts, or a delayed flight.
Who climbs with us
Twin Peaks is for climbers who want maximum summit time on a single Ladakh trip — KY II followed by Dzo Jongo, with the buffer days a single peak alone wouldn't justify. Twin Peaks batches are a mix of first-time 6,000ers willing to put in the 8+ weeks of training, and second-time TVT climbers stretching beyond a single-summit trip. The two-summit window stacks fatigue, so the climbers who do well are the ones who train and listen to the guides on rest-day calls.
The route, point by point
| Point | Altitude | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Leh | 3,500m | Two nights to acclimatise before the trek |
| Markha | 3,800m | Largest village in the Markha Valley |
| Hankar | 3,950m | Last village before high meadows; ruins of an old fort |
| Kang Yatse Base Camp | 4,900m | High meadow under Kang Yatse south face |
| KY2 Summit | 6,250m | South-west ridge, fixed-rope summit pyramid. Altitude 6,250m per the standard Indian-operator figure; Wikipedia/AAJ list ~6,200m (verified 2026-06-24) |
| Dzo Jongo Base Camp | 4,800m | Nimaling area, east of Kang Yatse |
| Dzo Jongo East Summit | 6,217m | Wide non-technical summit ridge |
| Kongmaru La | ~5,260m | Highest pass on the Markha trek; descent route |
| Chokdo | 3,800m | Road head; drive back to Leh |
Itinerary
11 days, Leh to Leh.
- Day 1: sleeps at 3,500m .
- Day 2: sleeps at 3,500m .
- Day 3: sleeps at 3,800m .
- Day 4: sleeps at 3,950m .
- Day 5: sleeps at 4,900m .
- Day 6: sleeps at 4,900m .
- Day 7: sleeps at 4,900m , climbing to 6,250m.
- Day 8: sleeps at 4,800m .
- Day 9: sleeps at 4,800m , climbing to 6,217m.
- Day 10: sleeps at 3,500m , climbing to 5,260m.
- Day s 11–12: sleeps at 3,500m .
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Day 1 Arrival at Leh
Acclimatise 3,500mFly into Leh in the morning. Take it slow — altitude hits even seasoned trekkers. Hydrate, rest, light meals. Welcome briefing in the evening.
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Day 2 Acclimatisation at Leh
Acclimatise 3,500mEasy acclimatisation walk in Leh. Final gear check and expedition Q&A. Early dinner, full rest.
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Day 3 Drive till road head, trek to Markha
Approach 3,800mDrive from Leh to the trek road head. Cross into the Markha Valley and walk to Markha village — the largest in the valley. First night on the trail.
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Day 4 Markha to Hankar
Approach 3,950mWalk along the Markha river through small Buddhist hamlets to Hankar — the last village before the high meadows. Watch for blue sheep and lammergeier on the cliffs above the trail.
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Day 5 Hankar to Base Camp
Approach 4,900mClimb onto the high pasture and continue to Kang Yatse base camp under the south face. Establish camp; rest the afternoon.
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Day 6 Rest and training day
Climb 4,900mSkills clinic at base camp: crampon fit, ice axe self-arrest, fixed-rope ascender technique. Short acclimatisation walk in the afternoon. Summit briefing in the evening, sleep early.
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Day 7 Summit attempt — Kang Yatse II (6,250m)
Climb 6,250msummit, return to base camp
Pre-dawn start with headlamps. Cross moraine, rope up at the glacier toe. Steady snow ascent to the summit pyramid. Fix rope on the final ridge. Summit, then long descent back to base camp by mid-afternoon.
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Day 8 Move to Dzo Jongo Base Camp
Climb 4,800mPack up Kang Yatse base camp and move across to Dzo Jongo base camp in the Nimaling area. Short day; afternoon for rest and acclimatisation. Summit briefing in the evening.
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Day 9 Summit attempt — Dzo Jongo East (6,217m)
Climb 6,217msummit, return to base camp
Pre-dawn start. Walk up moraine and onto the broad snow slope above. The route is non-technical — crampons and ice axe, no fixed ropes — to a wide summit ridge. Summit, then descent back to base camp by midday.
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Day 10 Dzo Jongo Base to Chokdo via Kongmaru La, drive to Leh
Descend 5,260mpass, 3,800m road head
Climb to Kongmaru La — the highest pass on the Markha trek — and descend the gorge to Chokdo. Vehicle waiting; drive to Leh. Hot shower, real bed, group dinner.
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Days 11–12 Buffer days
Descend 3,500mTwo contingency days held back for weather, summit re-attempts, or a delayed flight in/out of Leh. If unused, they become free days in Leh at no additional cost — time for the bazaar, monasteries, or rest before the flight out.
What's included
Included
- Transport — Leh to last roadhead and Chokdo to Leh
- Accommodation — stay from Day 1 to last day in Leh (sharing)
- Food — all meals from Day 3 lunch to lunch on the last day
- Permits — all trekking permits and camping charges
- Trekking and safety equipment — tents, sleeping bags, and technical equipment
- Certified trek leaders, guides, and support staff
Not included
- Backpack offloading charges
- Any kind of personal insurance and rescue expenses
- Meals during Leh stay and road journey
- Personal expenses of any kind, and anything apart from the inclusions
- Emergency evacuation and hospital charges
How it compares to other peaks
| Peak | Altitude | Grade | Best for | Why pick it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Twin Peaks | 6,250m + 6,217m | PD+ | Two 6,000ers in one trip | KY2 + Dzo Jongo East over 12 days. |
| Kang Yatse II (standalone) | 6,250m | PD+ | Single iconic 6,000er | Pick this if you only have 9 days, or want to bank the cash from a single summit. |
| Dzo Jongo East (standalone) | 6,217m | PD | Quieter solo 6,000er | Pick this if you specifically want the quieter peak only. |
| Kang Yatse I | 6,400m | AD | Technical second 6,000er | Pick this if you've already done a 6,000er and want technical mixed terrain. |
| Mentok Kangri II | 6,250m | PD | Easiest 6,000er, walk-up | Pick this if you want a non-technical 6,000er. |
Dates & availability
2 departures scheduled. All Leh to Leh.
- JUL 18–28 2026Sold out₹75,000 per climberSold out
- AUG 1–11 2026Open₹75,000 per climber
Need different dates? Private departures are possible through Mid-Jul – Mid-Sep with a minimum of 4 climbers — message us on WhatsApp.
Your guides
Subodh Bhadauriya ITRA
Expedition Leader · Mountain Athlete · 8+ years
What climbers said
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Did Kang Yatse II & Dzo Jongo expeditions with The Vertical Tribe team and the experience was amazing. Special thanks to our Expedition leader Subodh and our guide Ajay, who took care of us at every step and made sure we have a memorable journey and successful summit.
Pooja Solanki Google
What we don't do
- We don't fabricate summit success rates
- No '85% summit rate' marketing line — and absolutely no double-summit hit-rate number. Conditions and weather decide too much for a number to mean anything honest, and on a two-summit expedition the variables compound. We tell you what we control, and we turn around when conditions don't support a safe attempt.
- We don't pad the itinerary
- Twelve days is what two summits actually need — two acclimatisation nights in Leh, a clean Markha approach, KY2, the move to Nimaling, Dzo Jongo East, the descent over Kongmaru La, plus two buffer days. No invented "extra rest" days that exist only to inflate the price.
- We don't run rolling weekly departures
- We climb in small groups, 10 to 12 climbers depending on batch, with named guides we've worked with for years, not a rotating roster. If the dates don't fit your calendar, climb with us next season.
Permits, rules and cancellation
Permits
- All trekking permits and camping charges, handled by TVT and included in the expedition cost
- No Inner Line Permit required for Indian nationals on this route
- Expedition permits in Ladakh are issued to registered Mountaineering Tour Operators, by the office of the Assistant Director (Tourism), Leh, at least 30 days before the expedition starts (Ladakh Mountaineering Policy 2024, section X)
- Permit fee for peaks below 6,500m, the band both Kang Yatse II (6,250m) and Dzo Jongo East (6,217m) sit in: Rs 1,000 per member for domestic teams. Foreign teams pay USD 50 per member in a group of up to five, plus USD 40 for each additional member up to 14
- Peaks below 6,500m are capped at 100 permits per peak per calendar year, with a maximum of 14 members per expedition and no more than 40 climbers on the peak at any one time
- Foreign nationals: we file the additional paperwork well ahead of the 30-day minimum
Budgeting permit fees yourself? Use our IMF permit & India trek cost calculator — every figure quoted from its source.
Cancellation
- More than 60 days before departure — full refund
- 60 to 30 days before departure — 50% refund
- Less than 30 days before departure — no refund
Rules on the mountain
- No alcohol or smoking during the trek
- Don't litter; do not disturb the flora and fauna
- No loudspeakers
- Leave No Trace
Frequently asked
Which peak is harder, Kang Yatse II or Dzo Jongo East?
Kang Yatse II is the harder of the two: Alpine PD+ with a fixed-rope summit ridge. Dzo Jongo East is a non-technical PD-grade snow walk-up with a wide summit ridge. We climb KY2 first while you are freshest, then Dzo Jongo East once you are fully acclimatised.
Can I climb the Twin Peaks solo, without a guide?
In practice, no, and the reason is the permit rather than the mountain. Under the Ladakh Mountaineering Policy 2024, notified by the Department of Tourism, UT Ladakh, expedition permits are issued to registered Mountaineering Tour Operators, who must apply "at least 30 days before the start of the expedition". Those operators are in turn bound by the policy's operating instructions, which state: "No solo expedition shall be allowed." There is no route left to a permitted solo ascent. A separate clause, filed under the policy's Advisory heading, adds that solo expeditions "are strongly discouraged due to safety concerns and potential difficulties with rescue operations" and that climbers "shall explore the mountains and peaks with a qualified and registered local guide/ s only". One caveat on dates: the policy dates from 2024, so accounts of unguided attempts published before it were not wrong at the time, they have been superseded.
How fit do I need to be?
Run 5 km in under 35 minutes, walk 10 km with an 8 kg pack without strain, and complete a focused 8–12 weeks of cardio and leg-strength work before departure. A two-summit window stacks fatigue across days.
What gear do I need to bring?
Personal: B2-rated mountaineering boots (broken in), down jacket, base + mid-layers, gloves (light + heavy), headlamp, glacier sunglasses. Technical climbing gear, tents, and sleeping bags are provided. Full personal-gear checklist shared after enquiry.
What happens if weather turns on a summit day?
Two buffer days are built into the itinerary. The lead guide makes the final call. We turn around if conditions don't support a safe attempt and re-attempt with the buffer days. If both buffer days are weathered out, we descend with whatever summits we got. Mountains decide; we don't fabricate success rates.
