Black Peak (Kalanag) is a 6,387m peak in the Bandarpunch massif of the Garhwal Himalayas, graded Alpine AD−. The Vertical Tribe runs it as a 15-day Dehradun-to-Dehradun expedition: a drive to Sankri, a three-day trek through Devsu and Ruinsara Lake to Kyarkoti base camp, a full acclimatisation-and-skills day, load-ferry rotations through Advanced Base Camp and Camp 1 to a summit camp at ~5,500m, and a pre-dawn summit push that includes a 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall at roughly 70°. Two buffer days are built in at the end. First climbed in 1955 by Jack Gibson and students of The Doon School.
Highlights
- It's a Garhwal 6,000er with a real summit day. A 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall at roughly 70° is the crux — short, but the kind of pitch that makes Black Peak feel like a climb, not a snow walk.
- The approach is a trek worth doing on its own. Three trail days from Sankri — through the oak-and-rhododendron forests above Taluka, the alpine meadows of Devsu, and a camp on the shore of Ruinsara Lake under the Bandarpunch range.
- Real first-ascent history. First climbed in 1955 by Jack Gibson with students of The Doon School — one of the earliest civilian-led first ascents in the Indian Himalayas, and the reason Black Peak is a fixture on Indian mountaineering school syllabi.
Black Peak Expedition at a glance
- What is Black Peak?
- A 6,387m climbing peak in the Bandarpunch massif of the Garhwal Himalayas, also called Kalanag. Standard route is graded Alpine AD−.
- How hard is it?
- Alpine AD− — the hardest of TVT's open-batch 6,000ers. Glacier travel, a 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall at ~70°, and a long mixed summit day. Black Peak can be a first 6000m peak only for a fit BMC graduate who wants a serious AD- objective, not for a trekker shopping by altitude alone.
- How long does it take?
- 15 days Dehradun to Dehradun, including the drive in to Sankri, a three-day trek to base camp at Kyarkoti, summit rotations through ABC, Camp 1 and a summit camp, and two buffer days at the end for weather.
- How much does it cost?
- ₹80,000 per climber — covers transport from Dehradun, all stays from Sankri to Sankri, all meals on trek, IMF and Forest permits, and all technical and safety equipment. Personal insurance, evacuation, and tips are extra.
- When is the best time to climb?
- May–June (pre-monsoon) and September–October (post-monsoon). Pre-monsoon gives stable snow and longer summit windows; post-monsoon offers the clearest skies of the year but colder nights at high camp.
How difficult is Black Peak, really?
Yes, technical. Alpine AD- here means glacier travel plus a fixed-rope ice wall of 75 feet at roughly 70°, climbed on front points. The required skills are crampon technique, fixed-rope ascent, glacier travel and self-arrest. Black Peak can be a first 6000m peak only for a fit BMC graduate who wants a serious AD- objective, not for a trekker shopping by altitude alone. This is not a fallback when Kang Yatse II is full.
- Terrain
- Three trail days from Sankri: oak and rhododendron forest above Taluka, the meadows of Devsu, then the Ruinsara valley to base camp at Kyarkoti. Above base camp it changes to moraine and boulder field, crevassed glacier between ABC and Camp 1, then steepening snow to the ice wall and the summit ridge.
- Altitude
- Summit 6,387m, base camp at Kyarkoti 4,050m. The ladder is Sankri 1,950m, Devsu 2,600m, Ruinsara 3,500m, base camp 4,050m with a full acclimatisation and training day, ABC 4,600m, Camp 1 5,200m, summit camp roughly 5,500m, moved through on carry-high/sleep-low rotations.
- Summit day
- Start at 2 AM with headlamps. Climb the 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall at roughly 70° on front points, then snow slopes to the summit ridge, with views to Swargarohini and across the Bandarpunch range. Descend to ABC the same day. Roughly 4 km total, 10 to 12 hours.
Overview
Black Peak is climbed from Sankri via the Ruinsara valley — a Garhwal approach, not a Ladakhi drive-in. The expedition starts with a long drive from Dehradun to Sankri (1,950m), then a short drive to Taluka and a hike through forest to a meadow camp at Devsu Thatch. From Devsu the trail follows the Ruinsara Gad past Ruinsara Lake (3,500m) and on to base camp at Kyarkoti (4,050m), under the south face of the peak. A full acclimatisation-and-training day at base camp covers crampon use, ice axe self-arrest, fixed-rope ascent, and glacier-travel basics. The expedition then moves up the mountain in the classic carry-high/sleep-low rhythm — a load ferry to Advanced Base Camp at 4,600m, a move up the next day, a load ferry through crevassed glacier terrain to Camp 1 at 5,200m, a move up to Camp 1, and finally a push to the summit camp at roughly 5,500m. Summit night starts around 2 AM. The route climbs steepening snow to the 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall (~70°), then onto the upper snow slopes and the summit ridge, with views to Swargarohini and across the Bandarpunch range. The descent drops back to ABC the same day. Days 12 and 13 walk back out via Ruinsara to Sankri; Days 14 and 15 are buffer for weather, a re-attempt, or the drive back to Dehradun.
Who climbs with us
Black Peak draws climbers who want a 6,000er without the Ladakh crowds. What they share is willingness to camp at altitude and trust the guides on the mixed snow-and-rock summit ridge.
The route, point by point
| Point | Altitude | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sankri | 1,950m | Garhwali village; trailhead and homestay night before the trek |
| Devsu Thatch | 2,600m | First camp; alpine meadow above Taluka |
| Ruinsara Lake | 3,500m | Glacial lake under the Bandarpunch range |
| Base Camp (Kyarkoti) | 4,050m | Tented base camp under Black Peak's south face |
| Advanced Base Camp | 4,600m | Load ferry, then move up — first taste of the glacier |
| Camp 1 | 5,200m | Crevassed glacier terrain; staging for the summit camp move |
| Summit Camp | 5,500m | Last camp before the summit push |
| Summit | 6,387m | 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall ~70°, then the summit ridge |
Itinerary
14 days, Dehradun to Dehradun.
- Day 1: sleeps at 1,950m .
- Day 2: sleeps at 2,600m .
- Day 3: sleeps at 3,500m .
- Day 4: sleeps at 4,050m .
- Day 5: sleeps at 4,050m .
- Day 6: sleeps at 4,050m , climbing to 4,600m.
- Day 7: sleeps at 4,600m .
- Day 8: sleeps at 4,600m , climbing to 5,200m.
- Day 9: sleeps at 5,200m .
- Day 10: sleeps at 5,500m .
- Day 11: sleeps at 4,600m , climbing to 6,387m.
- Day 12: sleeps at 3,500m , climbing to 4,600m.
- Day 13: sleeps at 1,950m , climbing to 3,500m.
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Day 1 Dehradun to Sankri
Approach 1,950mLeave Dehradun at first light. ~220 km / 8–9 hrs via Mussoorie, Purola and Mori to Sankri (1,950m), the trailhead village. Overnight in homestay.
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Day 2 Drive to Taluka & Hike to Devsu
Approach 2,600mDrive from Sankri to the last motorable point at Taluka, then trek through oak and rhododendron forest to Devsu Thatch, a meadow camp at 2,600m. Set up camp and acclimatise.
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Day 3 Devsu to Ruinsara
Approach 3,500mTrek alongside the Ruinsara Gad through alpine meadows and birch forest to Ruinsara Lake (3,500m), a glacial lake under the Bandarpunch range. Camp on the shore.
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Day 4 Ruinsara to Kyarkoti (Base Camp)
Approach 4,050mAscend through moraines and boulder fields towards Kyarkoti, the expedition's base camp. The landscape transitions from alpine meadows to rocky terrain. Establish base camp with views of Black Peak dominating the horizon.
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Day 5 Acclimatisation & Technical Training
Climb 4,050mCritical acclimatisation day at base camp. Conduct technical training sessions including ice axe arrest, crampon techniques, rope work, and glacier travel safety. Short acclimatisation hike to higher altitude. Rest and prepare equipment.
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Day 6 Base Camp to ABC (Load Ferry)
Climb 4,600mFirst load ferry to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Carry equipment and supplies to establish the higher camp. Return to base camp for the night. This rotation helps with acclimatisation.
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Day 7 Move to ABC
Climb 4,600mMove to Advanced Base Camp with remaining equipment. The route crosses initial glacier sections. Establish ABC and prepare for the next phase of the expedition.
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Day 8 ABC to Camp 1 (Load Ferry)
Climb 5,200mLoad ferry to Camp 1 through crevassed glacier terrain. Navigate around seracs and ice formations. Practice rope techniques on the glacier. Return to ABC.
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Day 9 Move to Camp 1
Climb 5,200mMove to Camp 1 with remaining supplies. The route requires careful glacier navigation. Prepare for the summit push and review the route ahead.
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Day 10 Camp 1 to Summit Camp
Climb 5,500mEstablish summit camp on the upper glacier. The terrain becomes steeper with technical sections. Early dinner and rest. Summit briefing and equipment check.
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Day 11 Summit Attempt — Black Peak (6,387m)
Climb 6,387msummit, return to ABC
Start at 2 AM with headlamps. Climb the 75-foot fixed-rope ice wall (~70°) on front points. Push through snow slopes to reach the summit ridge. Summit Black Peak at sunrise with 360° panoramic views of Swargarohini, Bandarpunch, and distant peaks. Descend carefully to ABC.
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Day 12 ABC to Ruinsara
Descend 3,500mDescend from ABC through base camp to Ruinsara. Celebrate the successful summit with the team. The descent offers different perspectives of the terrain covered.
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Day 13 Ruinsara to Sankri
Descend 1,950mFinal trek day descending through Devsu. Depending on conditions, trek to Seema or continue to Sankri. Farewell to the mountains and return to the village. Certificate distribution and expedition wrap-up.
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Day 14–15 Buffer days / drive back to Dehradun
Descend VariableReserved for weather delays or rest. If not needed for the expedition, these days can be used for exploring Sankri village, additional rest, or departure to Dehradun. Drive back to Dehradun when expedition concludes.
What's included
Included
- Accommodation- First and last day in Sankri (Homestay/Tents), Rest days Stay in Tents (Sharing)
- Meals: All meals from Sankri to Sankri
- Transport: Dehradun to Sankri and back, Sankri to start point
- Certified Trek leads, experienced guides and support staff
- All necessary permits and entry fees, incl IMF & Forest permits
- All technical equipments
Not included
- Any kind of personal expenses, Food during transit
- Porters charges for backpack offloading
- Customary tip to guides and porters
- Evacuation and medical expenses
- Insurance (Mandatory)
- Anything not outlined under 'Inclusions'
Dates & availability
2 departures scheduled. All Dehradun to Dehradun.
- SEPT 27–11 2026Sold out crosses September–October₹80,000 per climberSold out
- MAY 30–13 2027Open crosses May–June₹80,000 per climber
Need different dates? Private departures are possible through May–Jun · Sep–Oct with a minimum of 4 climbers — message us on WhatsApp.
Your guides
Subodh Bhadauriya ITRA
Expedition Leader · Mountain Athlete · 8+ years
What we don't do
- We don't fabricate summit success rates
- No '85% summit rate' marketing line. Conditions and weather decide too much for a number to mean anything honest. We tell you what we control, and we turn around when conditions don't support a safe attempt.
- We don't pad the itinerary
- Fifteen days is what the climb actually needs: the drive in to Sankri, a three-day trek to base camp, an acclimatisation and training day, the load-ferry rotations to ABC, Camp 1 and summit camp, summit and walk-out, plus two buffer days at the end. No invented "extra rest" days that exist only to inflate the price.
- We don't run rolling weekly departures
- We climb in small groups, a maximum of 10 climbers per batch.
Permits, rules and cancellation
Permits
- IMF and Forest permits — handled by TVT, included in the expedition cost
- IMF peak royalty, per the IMF schedule (indmount.org): "Below 6500 M: US$ 500 for a party of two members". "Liaison Officer Equipment Hire charges US$ 500 in addition to the handling charges." (Verified 2026-06-24.)
Budgeting permit fees yourself? Use our IMF permit & India trek cost calculator — every figure quoted from its source.
Cancellation
- More than 90 days before departure — 80% refund
- 61 to 90 days before departure — 50% refund
- 60 days or less before departure — no refund
Rules on the mountain
- No alcohol or smoking during the expedition
- Don't litter; do not disturb the flora and fauna; respect local culture
- No loudspeakers
- Leave No Trace
Frequently asked
Which peak is called the black mountain of India?
Black Peak (Kalanag), 6,387m in the Bandarpunch massif of Garhwal, Uttarakhand. Its west face is a wall of dark rock that stands visibly darker than the snow-covered Bandarpunch peaks beside it — the origin of both the English name and the Hindi Kalanag ("black cobra"). It is a different place from the Black Mountains of Bhutan and from Kala Patthar in Nepal.
What is the best time to climb Black Peak?
The best seasons are May–June (pre-monsoon) and September–October (post-monsoon).
What happens if weather prevents the summit attempt?
We have 2 buffer days built into the itinerary for weather delays. If conditions don't permit a safe summit attempt, the team leader will make the final call. Safety is always our priority. Refunds for weather-related cancellations follow our cancellation policy.
Is the expedition suitable for solo travellers?
Yes. Most batches include solo climbers; we pair them in shared tents (same gender by default) and the group climbs as one rope team. Tell us if you want a single supplement.
What technical equipment do I need to bring?
All technical climbing equipment is provided including harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, ascender, and carabiners. You need to bring personal gear like trekking boots, warm layers, and sleeping bag liner (optional).
How do I reach Dehradun for the expedition?
Dehradun is reachable by train (Dehradun Railway Station), air (Jolly Grant Airport), and overnight bus from Delhi. Arrive a day early to allow for travel delays.
